Description:

This is a sewing pattern for a basic skirt of the early bustle period from 1869-1875.

The pattern shows a trained plain basic skirt of the early bustle era, made of several gores. The two front gores are smoothly sewn to the waistband, the width is gathered into narrow cartridge pleats at the back and two folds at each side. For walking, the skirt can be looped up with an invisible cord.
The front length of the finished skirt is 39 1/2” (100cm) and is closed on the left side between the 1st and 2nd gore. At that time, the placket often was cut on and just overlapping, without any additional fasteners, only the waistband was closed with hooks and eyes. Hooks and eyes can be used as described in the pattern, omitted or replaced by snap fasteners, invented about 1890. On the right side, a hidden in-seam pocket enables to carry a wallet and a handkerchief.
The whole skirt is flatlined, with additional hem support, to reach the desired shape.

The basic skirt, worn over a petticoat, was often kept plain, sometimes decorated with ruffles or a flounce at the hem. Next layer, an overskirt, also called apron, was voluminously gathered and decorated, fitting the basic skirt and bodice.
The bodice was still similar to the crinoline bodice, featuring a high waistline compared to the following eras.

Length of finished skirt front: 39 1/2“ (100cm)

Fitted to be worn over a corset and bustle.

Also suitable for steampunk costumes.

The pattern comes with detailed and illustrated sewing instructions. It is a multi size pattern, you can choose between US 8-18 (EU 34-44) and US 20-30 (EU 46-56).

This is a paper pattern, printed on solid, white paper (60-60g/m2).

Recommended fabric:
Fashion fabric: (silk) taffeta or (silk) sateen
Lining: light to midweight cotton fabric
Hem facing: stiff fabric like buckram or hair canvas

Yardage:
US 8-18 (EU 34-44):
Fasion fabric: 4,4 yds. 55“ wide / 4m with a width of 140cm
Lining: 4,4 yds. 55“ wide / 4m with a width of 140cm
Hem facing: 2 yds. 35“ wide / 2m with a width of 90cm
Hooks and eyes
Twill tape 3/4“ (2cm) wide (hem + waistband): 6yd. (6m)
9 small metal or plastic rings
Cotton cord Ø 1/8“ (2mm): 2yd. (2m)

US 20-30 (EU 46-56):
Fasion fabric: 5 yds. 55“ wide / 4,5m with a width of 140cm
Lining: 5 yds. 55“ wide / 4,5m with a width of 140cm
Hem facing: 2 yds. 35“ wide / 2m with a width of 90cm
Hooks and eyes
Twill tape 3/4“ (2cm) wide (hem + waistband): 7yd. (7m)
9 small metal or plastic rings
Cotton cord Ø 1/8“ (2mm): 2yd. (2m)